Hello again! So much to share...
First, let me update you on the "Hammam Project." (hopefully you'll remember the previous details, if not - refer to the last posting)
a successful endeavor...
After some delay, the meeting with Midelt hammam owners (plus a few from Boumia) took place on July 29th. We arranged for a prototype boiler to be on display, which greatly increased the effectiveness of the meeting and the interest of those attending. The programming assistant for the Peace Corps Environment program gave an introductory talk that explained the project and especially the environmental reasons that motivated PC to participate. She also explained to the hammam owners that the volunteers do not profit from the sale of the improved boilers.
Next, Mr. Makouai from The Center for Renewable Energies (CDER) gave a presentation explaining how the boiler works and how it would be financially beneficial to hammam owners. Throughout the project, we have stressed that the boiler is a good investment in addition to its environmental advantages. A boilermaker from Marrakech who has constructed over fifty improved boilers accompanied Mr. Makouai. His experience and expertise were key in addressing the issues brought up by hammam owners. A spirited debate followed in which hammam owners seriously considered the implications of converting their hammams. The main remaining obstacle delaying conversion was that hammam owners wanted to see a functioning improved boiler, which at that point we were unable to provide. Other concerns included how the boiler would function in Midelt’s cold environment and the fact that some owners had recently bought new boilers for their hammams. Nonetheless, owners were very positive about the idea and several left seriously considering making a conversion. When Peace Corps told the hammam owners that there was a possibility of funding assistance for the conversion, we received some interest in immediate conversion. Some of these hammams were not suitable, but following the
meeting, we pursued the suitable hammams and just this past week, we had one commit to the installation. We are currently in the process of having all contracts signed and submitting a grant to support the installation. In addition, we were recently informed that 4 other owners had contacted the boiler maker directly, in consideration of converting their hammams independently of the financial assistance!
We are really pleased with how well everything has gone so far. We have had many obstacles, but we've also noted our accomplishments:
The meeting had two primary goals: First, to push one or two hammams towards immediate conversion (with the added incentive of financial assistance) - serving as a demonstration for other hammams in the area and starting the reduction of wood consumption. Second, to make the rest of the hammam owners aware of the technology and pique their interest enough to make them consider conversion when they next replace their boilers, which will later make a significant difference in the area's deforestation. Check. Check... Furthermore, we identified increased human capacity in the groups we worked with, specifically CDER's ability to make a targeted presentation to hammam owners and the local Association Jeunes Sans Frontieres' capacity to create and implement a large scale project plan. And not least importantly, we have documented an increased community awareness of the environmental threats posed by deforestation and irresponsible use of natural resources.
Humdullah!
We rode our bikes between hammams in Midelt (there were 20 and they were very spread out!)
Before that, in June, my host sister got married! What an event! It was for me a 5-day event, with the bride wearing 7 different outfits and the groom only arriving for the final evening.
The first night, I just went to have dinner with the family and wish them congratulations (but little did I know, there were a lot of people doing that - and it turned into an all evening event with dancing and singing). The next evening, the men gathered to sing the Koran as a blessing for the couple and the family. I just stayed with my host sister in a side room. The third day, the women gathered while my host sister had henna applied to her hands and feet. (Henna is a plant indigenous to this area with orangish dying properties. It is traditionally used to decorate hands and feet for weddings and special occasions). That evening, the community women gathered for dinner and celebration. The following night was for the men and the final evening was for everyone (including people from out of town). During the day, a lot of people visited and then a parade was organized bringing gifts from the other side of town by donkey cart with drummers and trumpets playing. I borrowed a pretty dress from a girl in town :) and was there all day and night... I finally made it back to my own house at sunrise the following morning (around 5:30 am). 
That same day, the family took my sister to her new house (in Azrou), about 2 hours away, where she now lives. Here's a little background... This wasn't exactly an "arranged marriage." Her husband came to my town "looking for a wife." He asked around who he should approach and three people all told him to ask my host sister... so, according to my host sister, this means that it must have been "God's will" that they be married. He asked the family and after a month of decision, they agreed. She talked to him quite a bit on the phone after they were officially married, (between signing the papers and the wedding), but prior to the papers, they had hardly spoken and never spent any time alone before their wedding night. She seems to be very happy to be married. She wants very much to have children...
This past month (Aug 5 -22), I had the good fortune to go back to
America to visit my family! My sister and her family came from China, my other sister came with her two children from Colorado and we all stayed at my parents (newly renovated to hold us all!) house.
We had a wonderful time going on family outings (Dinosaur Land and Wildlife Park!) and having a lot of fun at home too!!! I can't even explain the fun we had on "Pickle Day," but here are some pictures... (it was my first time being a pickle) To top it off, two of my close friends were able to come visit me! It was so wonderful to catch up and reconnect. I am not sure if I've ever been so filled with gratitude as I was during this trip... Every little thing excited me... TREES!!!! WATER!
it's all so clean... a seat all to myself in the air-conditioned car and no exhaust or associated nausea... People are so NICE! Of course there were some things I didn't like too... high fructose corn syrup, unimpressive television, intolerance, and the like, but still, I was happy to see I could at last see such good in a country I was very eager to leave 2 years ago.
Immediately upon reentry into Morocco (after a quick swine flu update... don't worry, I'm fine), I met my stagemates (the group of Volunteers I originally arrived to country with) at a hotel in Rabat. We had our "Close of Service" conference, which included all the administrative stuff we need to do, medical schedules and information, some presentations by Returned PCVs and a USAID worker, and a lot of other "Adjustment" information. Other than the admin stuff, I think the main point was for us to all get back together, to bring a little closure to this whole experience. It was all pretty surreal for me... I'm not sure if it was because I just got back from vacation or because I don't have any determined plans for afterward or what... but it was nice to see everyone and get an idea of what everyone's experiences have been like - (all across the board!)
In addition to returning to my COS conference, I returned to Ramadan... This is now my third Ramadan in country, so I suspect you should get the gist by now... a month of fasting (sun up to sun down, nothing enters their mouths) and praying (all 5 times a day) and lots of sugar. They also are more modest and pious in general. I have been having "break fast" with just a few families that I am closest to, but I doubt I'll do it everyday... We're still pretty early in the month.
So, as far as I can tell, it looks like, God willing, I will be replaced by a male volunteer when it's time for me to go. Unfortunately, I'm going to have a maximum of three days of overlap from the time he comes to when I leave, so I'll be spending a lot of time developing a community guide (including work info) for him. Things are getting a lot better in a lot of ways, so I should have a lot to tell him :) So, that will be towards the end of November. Where will I be heading, you ask? That remains to be determined... I'll be sure to update you before then ;)
